First order of business: drinks. You can tell someone had a fun time assembling this wine list (you’ll find us in the “Old Wine Out of Big Bottles” section). Then start your meal with the salt-crusted sardine smørrebrød on charred chocolate rye bread (sounds weird; tastes sweet, salty, and amazing), and do not pass up the dukkah-spiced lamb ribs, slow-cooked then grilled, yielding charred, barky bits on the outside.