It has a pleasant low hum to it and is almost…relaxing. Well, until you start sweating from all the chiles. The $49 seven-course menu (the best deal in town) changes weekly, but you can always expect Monis, who first made a name for himself at his high-end Greek restaurant, Komi, to bring the heat. Pray that there’s laap on the menu (the spicy minced-meat salad is almost always there) and get ready to start downing that Singha.