It starts with an elbow-to-elbow–packed shoebox of a space whose cedar-wrapped walls evoke a Zen sauna. The hits land one after the next: lush brandade with garlic bread, bacon-wrapped dates (you have to), and the always perfectly cooked whole-roasted fish. The kitchen’s recent forays into the Middle Eastern pantry (sumac, za’atar, urfa, and the like) keep the menu feeling fresh. The night’s not over until your wine glass has hit at least half the countries on the Mediterranean.