Very old Istanbul tavern style establishment, an old tradition from Greek times apparently. Far and away the best meal I've had in Turkey, and also one of the best experiences. Sit at the bar and let the wonderful, bald, mustachioed head chef give you a history lesson and a culinary education of Ottoman tradition. Highlights include house cured olives with pistachio sprouts, zucchini-walnut-yogurt-garlic purée, and mustard-sea-bass. Nota bene- this is all food that is designed to be eaten with raki over many hours. The flavors tend to be intense whether it be salty, garlicky, spicy, or nutty.