Chef and owner Nicholas Stefanelli serves traditionally inspired, impeccably modern Italian dishes with a garnish of whimsy: Breads arrive in treasure chests and are ringed around porcelain octopus tentacles...Come for the linguine with XO sauce, stay for the buttery branzino—or really, any of the seafood dishes. Ambitious stomachs should go for the five-course option with wine pairings, but with the surprises that pop up in between courses, you’ll be more than full.